Method of forming an article of apparel

ABSTRACT

An article of apparel includes a composite material. The composite material includes a pliable first layer and a resilient second layer, where the first and second layers are secured to each other via a patterned strand network. In forming the composite material, the second layer is stretched and maintained under tension while the first layer is secured to the second layer via the patterned strand network. The tension on the second layer is then released, resulting in contraction of the second layer in relation to the first layer and an outward buckling or protrusion of the first layer in relation to the second layer to form protruding cells along the composite material that are bounded by portions of the patterned strand network. The patterned strand network can be formed using embroidery with one or more auxetic patterns in the stitching.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims priority from U.S. Provisional PatentApplication Ser. No. 62/951,003, filed Dec. 20, 2019, and further is acontinuation-in-part of U.S. patent application Ser. No. 16/717,605,filed Dec. 17, 2019, and a continuation-in-part of U.S. patentapplication Ser. No. 16/722,213, filed Dec. 20, 2019, both of whichclaim priority from U.S. Provisional Patent Application Ser. No.62/782,423, filed Dec. 20, 2018, the disclosure of each of theaforementioned applications is incorporated herein by reference in itsentirety.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a method of forming an article ofapparel.

BACKGROUND

Apparel such an article of footwear can be designed to provide a varietyof features in the upper and sole structure depending upon a particularapplication. Some features that are desirable are comfort,breathability, durability, stretchability and sufficient support andprotection for the user's foot when the shoe is worn for a particularapplication. For certain applications, it may also be desirable tocontrol a degree of stretch in one or more directions along the upperduring use. Controlling a degree of stretch and providing a comfortablefit is also important for other textile articles, including articles ofapparel.

It would be desirable to provide a textile article that is lightweight,breathable, and durable, and further provides enhanced levels ofstretchability at different locations of the textile article dependingupon a particular application of use.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In example embodiments, an article of apparel comprising a compositematerial is formed by orienting a first layer with a second layer suchthat a second stretch value of the second layer is greater than a firststretch value of the first layer in a stretch direction. Tension isapplied to stretch the second layer in the stretch direction from anoriginal dimension to a stretched dimension, and the first layer issecured to the second layer via a stitch network while the second layeris under tension. The stitch network forms a plurality of enclosed cellslocated between the first and second layers, with each enclosed cellbeing defined by a perimeter of stitches of the stitch network. Theapplied tension is then released, allowing the second layer to retractfrom its stretched dimension so as to form a composite material. Thecomposite material is incorporated into an article of apparel.

In a further embodiment, the composite material is a multilayeredtextile comprising a non-resilient first layer (i.e., a fabric withlimited stretch and recovery properties) and a resilient second layer(i.e., a fabric possessing stretch and recovery properties). The firstlayer is secured to second layer via stitching formed of a plurality ofstrand segments, each strand segment including a first thread positionedon the surface of the first layer and a second thread positioned on thesurface of the second layer. The first and second threads extend throughthe multilayered textile at predetermined locations to interlock witheach other. The stitches are organized in a predetermined pattern withinthe multilayer textile to form a plurality of cells, each cell beingenclosed by stitching. The multilayered textile is dynamic, beingconfigured to move from a normal, unstretched or unloaded position to anexpanded, stretched or loaded position. In the normal position, thefirst layer is separated from the second layer within one or more of thecells. In the expanded position, the first layer contacts the secondlayer within one or more of the cells.

In certain embodiments, the dynamic composite material comprises apliable first layer (e.g., the first layer having a two-way stretch) anda resilient second layer (e.g., the second layer having a four waystretch), where the first and second layers are secured to each othervia a patterned stitch or strand network to define a plurality ofdynamic cells. In forming the composite material, the second layer isstretched and maintained under tension while the first layer is securedto the second layer via the stitch network. After securing the first andsecond layers together, the tension on the second layer is released,resulting in contraction of the second layer in relation to the firstlayer and an outward buckling or protrusion of the first layer inrelation to the second layer. Specifically, each cell is driven upward(along the z-axis) from a first position, in which the first layer is incontact with the second layer within the confines of the stitched cell,to a second position, in which the first layer is separated from thesecond layer within the cell confines (as defined by the stitching).With this configuration, an array of protruding cells is formed alongthe composite material in a dynamic state, with each cell being boundedby portions of the patterned strand network. When the formed compositematerial is stretched in use, the cells collapse or flatten toward thesecond layer to a static state. The patterned strand network, asdescribed herein, can comprise an embroidered network that is formedwith one or more auxetic patterns in the stitching, where the auxeticpatterns enhance the stretchability of the composite material whenintegrated within the upper. Alternatively, the stitch network can alsobe any suitable stitching that facilitates the formation of individualcells based upon the pattern of stitches formed along the layers formingthe composite material.

In other embodiments, the dynamic composite material formed with apatterned strand network and including dynamic cells can be used to formother textile articles, such as other articles of apparel (e.g., abrassiere, a shirt, shorts, pants, etc.).

Methods of forming the composite material are also described herein.

The above and still further features and advantages of the presentinvention will become apparent upon consideration of the followingdetailed description of specific embodiments thereof.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIGS. 1A-1D are schematic views showing various material layercombinations for forming a composite textile in accordance withembodiments of the invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic of a stitch structure in accordance with anembodiment of the invention.

FIG. 3 is a flowchart depicting an example embodiment of the process forforming a patterned strand network for the composite material asdescribed herein.

FIG. 4A is a cross-sectional, exploded view of a plurality of layersthat form a composite material as depicted in FIG. 1A and in which onelayer (the second layer) is stretched/in tension, and further showingsites designating threaded stitch locations to secure the materiallayers together.

FIG. 4B is a cross-sectional view of the composite material shown inFIG. 4A after threaded stitches have secured the material layerstogether and the one layer.

FIG. 4C is a cross-sectional view of the composite material shown inFIG. 4B and in which the tension on the composite has been released.

FIG. 5 is a top view of composite material in accordance with anembodiment of the invention.

FIGS. 6A, 6B, 6C, 6D and 6E schematic views of stitch patterns accordingto embodiments of the invention.

FIG. 7A is a cross sectional view of the composite material in a normal,unloaded or unstretched configuration.

FIG. 7B illustrates the composite structure of FIG. 7A under a firstdegree of tension or load.

FIG. 7C illustrates the composite structure of FIG. 7A under a maximumdegree of tension or load, causing lockout.

FIG. 8 is a top view of material structure that forms an upper of anarticle of footwear and which includes a composite material formed inaccordance with an embodiment of the present invention.

FIGS. 9A, 9B, and 9C illustrate views of an article of footwearincluding a composite material formed in accordance with an embodimentof the present invention.

FIG. 10A is a front view of a brassiere including a composite materialformed in accordance with an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 10B is a rear view of the brassiere of FIG. 10A.

FIG. 11 is a view of an article of apparel (upper body garment)including a composite material formed in accordance with an embodimentof the present invention.

FIG. 12 is a view of an article of apparel (lower body garment)including a composite material formed in accordance with an embodimentof the present invention.

FIG. 13 is a cross-sectional view of the composite material includingthe package of FIG. 1B.

Like reference numerals have been used to identify like elementsthroughout this disclosure.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

In the following detailed description, reference is made to theaccompanying figures which form a part hereof wherein like numeralsdesignate like parts throughout, and in which is shown, by way ofillustration, embodiments that may be practiced. It is to be understoodthat other embodiments may be utilized, and structural or logicalchanges may be made without departing from the scope of the presentdisclosure. Therefore, the following detailed description is not to betaken in a limiting sense, and the scope of embodiments is defined bythe appended claims and their equivalents.

Aspects of the disclosure are disclosed in the accompanying description.Alternate embodiments of the present disclosure and their equivalentsmay be devised without parting from the spirit or scope of the presentdisclosure. It should be noted that any discussion herein regarding “oneembodiment”, “an embodiment”, “an exemplary embodiment”, and the likeindicate that the embodiment described may include a particular feature,structure, or characteristic, and that such particular feature,structure, or characteristic may not necessarily be included in everyembodiment. In addition, references to the foregoing do not necessarilycomprise a reference to the same embodiment. Finally, irrespective ofwhether it is explicitly described, one of ordinary skill in the artwould readily appreciate that each of the particular features,structures, or characteristics of the given embodiments may be utilizedin connection or combination with those of any other embodimentdiscussed herein.

Various operations may be described as multiple discrete actions oroperations in turn, in a manner that is most helpful in understandingthe claimed subject matter. However, the order of description should notbe construed as to imply that these operations are necessarily orderdependent. In particular, these operations may not be performed in theorder of presentation. Operations described may be performed in adifferent order than the described embodiment. Various additionaloperations may be performed and/or described operations may be omittedin additional embodiments.

For the purposes of the present disclosure, the phrase “A and/or B”means (A), (B), or (A and B). For the purposes of the presentdisclosure, the phrase “A, B, and/or C” means (A), (B), (C), (A and B),(A and C), (B and C), or (A, B and C).

The terms “comprising,” “including,” “having,” and the like, as usedwith respect to embodiments of the present disclosure, are synonymous.

A composite material as described herein is a textile constructionincluding multiple layers (e.g., at least two layers) that cooperate toform a plurality of discrete, dynamic cells operable to control theexpansion pattern of the composite material. The material isresilient—when load or tension is applied, the material moves from anormal, unstretched configuration to an expanded, stretchedconfiguration. The cells, moreover, move from a protruded configurationto a flattened configuration. When the load is released, the material(including the cells) recovers, returning to its normal configuration.

Referring to FIG. 1A, the composite material 100 includes a first orouter layer 110 (also called a pliable layer) and a second or base layer120 (also called a resilient layer). In other embodiments shown in FIGS.1B-1D, the composite material 100B, 100C, 100D includes further layers(as described in further detail herein). The specific number and/ortypes of layers that are used to form a composite material may dependupon a particular application of use for the composite material (e.g.,integration of the composite material within a particular article ofapparel, such as an article of footwear or shoe, a brassiere, shirts,shorts or pants, or other textile structures).

In an embodiment, the outer layer 110 is a pliable or flexible layerwith low, moderate or no stretch and/or recovery properties. Forexample, the first layer (as well as other layers except for the secondlayer) can have a recovery of less than 50%. By way of example, thefirst la90%yer 110 is a synthetic fabric including a substrate and apolymer coating. The substrate can be a nonwoven web or a knit textile.A nonwoven web is an assembly of textile fibers held together bymechanical interlocking in a random web or mat, e.g., by fusing of thefibers (in the case of thermoplastic fibers) or by bonding with apolymer. The fibers may be oriented in one direction or be deposited ina random manner. In an embodiment, the first layer 110 is a spun-bondedor spunbond web of entangled strands or fibers impregnated with apolymer to form a substantially continuous, porous structure. Thepolymer may include polymers such as polyurethane,acrylonitrile-butadiene copolymer, styrene-butadiene copolymer,copolymer of acrylic ester or methacrylic ester, and silicone rubber. Ina further embodiment, the first layer 110 can include ultra-fine fibersor microfibers which are impregnated and/or coated with polyurethane. Byway of example, the first layer 110 can comprise by weight about 55%polyester microfibers and about 45% polyurethane.

The thickness of the first layer may be any suitable for its describedpurpose (to buckle or bend upon recovery of the second layer 120). In anembodiment, the thickness of the pliable layer 110 is generally lessthan 2 mm. By way of example, the thickness can be from about 0.5 mm toabout 1.5 mm (e.g., about 0.8 mm) so as to facilitate certain propertiesfor the composite material as described herein. In example embodiments,the first layer 110 forms an outer layer of a textile structure (e.g.,an upper for an article of footwear) in which the composite material isintegrated.

The second or base layer 120 is a resilient fabric possessing a secondstretch and/or recovery value that is greater than that of the firstlayer 110 and, preferably, better than one or more of any other layersforming the composite material 100, 100A, 100B 100C, 100D. Elongation orstretch is the deformation in the direction of load caused by a tensileforce. Elongation may be measured in units of length (e.g., millimeters,inches) or calculated as a percentage of the original length (e.g., afabric that stretches 100% expands to twice its original length). Inparticular, an elongation value (also referred to as a stretch value)refers to an amount of elongation of a material in a dimension (lengthor width) that is defined with the formula: [(elongateddimension-original dimension)/(original dimension)]×100. Recovery(elastic recovery or elasticity) is the ability of a material under loadto recover its original size or near original size and shape immediatelyafter removal of the stress that causes deformation. For example, arecovery percentage refers to a percentage of an original dimension towhich the material relaxes (i.e., no longer under the load or tension)after being stretched along such dimension (e.g., a recovery percentageof at least 90% of a material indicates that the dimension of thematerial in the stretch direction after the load is removed will be atleast 90% of the original dimension of the material before beingstretched).

In an embodiment, the second layer 120 is a power stretch or elasticfabric having the ability to expand under load and regain its originalform once the load is removed. In an embodiment, the second layer has astretch value of at least 100% and a recovery value of greater than 50%and preferably at least 90%. By way of example, the second layer 120 isa knit textile. Knitting is a process for constructing fabric withstrands by interlocking a series of loops (bights) of one or morestrands organized in wales and courses. In general, knitting includeswarp knitting and weft knitting. In warp knitting, a plurality ofstrands run lengthwise in the fabric to make all the loops. In weftknitting, one continuous strand runs crosswise in the fabric, making allthe loops in one course. Weft knitting includes fabrics formed on bothcircular knitting and flat knitting machines.

The strands forming the second layer may be of any one or more typessuitable for the described purpose (to form a shoe upper). The termstrand includes a single fiber, filament, or monofilament, as well as anordered assemblage of textile fibers having a high ratio of length todiameter and normally used as a unit (e.g., slivers, roving, singleyarns, plies yarns, cords, braids, ropes, etc.). In a preferredembodiment a strand is a yarn (a continuous strand of textile fibers,filaments, or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, orotherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric). A yarn may include anumber of fibers twisted together (spun yarn); a number of filamentslaid together without twist (a zero-twist yarn); a number of filamentslaid together with a degree of twist; and a single filament with orwithout twist (a monofilament).

The strands forming the textile can be natural strands (e.g., cottonstrands, wool strands, silk strands, etc.) and/or synthetic strandsformed of one or more types of polymers, including fibers or filamentshaving one or more polymer components formed within the fibers orfilaments.

By way of example, a strand of the textile includes elastic strandsand/or inelastic strands. Elastic strands are strands includingelastomeric material (e.g., 100% elastic material). Elastic strands, byvirtue of their composition alone, are capable of stretching understress and recovering to its original size once the stress is released.Accordingly, elastic strands are utilized to provide a textile withstretch properties. An elastic strand is formed of rubber or a syntheticpolymer having properties of rubber. A specific example of anelastomeric material suitable for forming an elastic strand is elastane,an elastomeric polyester-polyurethane copolymer.

In contrast, an inelastic strand is formed of a non-elastomeric materialsuch natural and/or synthetic spun staple yarns, natural and/orsynthetic continuous filament yarns, and/or combinations thereof. By wayof specific example, natural, non-elastomeric fibers include cellulosicfibers (e.g., cotton, bamboo) and protein fibers (e.g., wool, silk, andsoybean). Synthetic non-elastomeric fibers include polyester fibers(poly(ethylene terephthalate) fibers and poly(trimethyleneterephthalate) fibers), polycaprolactam fibers, poly(hexamethyleneadipamide) fibers, acrylic fibers, acetate fibers, rayon fibers, nylonfibers and combinations. Accordingly, inelastic strands possess noinherent stretch and/or recovery properties by virtue of composition.

In general, both elastic and inelastic strands may be used in forming atextile layer, with inelastic strands utilized for ground stitches andthe elastic strands being inserted and/or knitted into the structure.Accordingly, elastomeric strands are used in combination with inelasticstrands. In an embodiment, the proportion of elastomeric fibers in thefabric may include about 50% or more elastomeric strands to providedesired stretch and recovery properties of the fabric. By way ofexample, the second layer comprises at least 60% (e.g., 68%-72%)elastomeric strands (e.g., elastane) and no more than 40% (e.g.,28%-32%) inelastic strands (e.g., nylon).

Accordingly, the second layer 120 is configured to have high elongationand recovery properties. The elastic or stretch fabric may be amono-elastic fabric, which stretches in a single, longitudinal orhorizontal (crosswise) direction (also called a two-way stretch fabric)or bi-elastic fabric, which stretch in both longitudinal and horizontaldirections (also called a four-way stretch fabric). In an embodiment,the second layer is a weft-knitted fabric possessing an elongation(stretch) value in the machine (longitudinal) direction of about 60% andan elongation in the width direction of about 220% (ASTM D4964-96(R2016)).

The layers forming the composite material 100 may be positioned in apredetermined orientation and, in particular, may be oriented withreference to the dominant stretch axis of the base layer 120. In FIG. 1A(as well as in FIGS. 1B-1D) the double sided arrow provided on eachmaterial layer 110, 120 (as well as additional layers 130, 135 and 140)provides an indication of an orientation of a primary or dominantdirection or dimension of stretch (also called the dominant stretchaxis), i.e., greatest or maximum elongation/stretch and recoveryproperty for the layer. As illustrated, the arrangement of the layersforming the composite material indicates that certain layers have adominant direction of stretch that are oriented transverse (e.g.,orthogonal) in relation to other material layer(s) that are securedtogether to form the composite material.

As shown in FIG. 1A, the second layer 120 has a primary/dominant orgreatest degree of stretch (greatest elongation value) oriented in ahorizontal or second direction (also called the width or x-axisdirection, as shown by the double arrow oriented on layer 120). Itshould be understood that the second layer 120 can also have a degree ofstretch in a vertical or first direction (i.e., a direction transversethe dominant direction of stretch as shown in FIG. 1A, also called thelength or y-axis direction), where the degree of stretch (elongationvalue) in the vertical direction is less than that in the horizontal(dominant) stretch direction for the second layer. As used herein, thehorizontal (second) and vertical (first) directions refer toorientations of a dominant degree of stretch for each layer in relationto all the other layers for each composite material depicted in FIGS.1A-1D.

In an embodiment, the second or base layer 120 is a power stretch knittextile possessing an elongation value of at least 50% in one or bothdirections and preferably in a range from about 50% to 200% or greater(e.g., up to about 160% in the dominant elongation or stretch direction(e.g., the width direction), and at least about 50% in the orthogonaldirection (the length direction) . The second layer 120, furthermore,possesses a recovery value of greater than 90% (e.g., 94% or greater),preferably in both directions.

The second layer 120 can also have any suitable thickness that permitssuitable elongation and recovery of the second layer for the intendeduse of the composite material. In example embodiments, the thickness ofthe second layer can range from about 0.5 mm to about 2.0 mm.

In an embodiment, the other layers are generally rigid. As explained ingreater detail below, in an embodiment, the other layers are firm knits(no/little stretch), moderate knits (less than 25% stretch) or stretchknits (less than 50% stretch). Should these other layers possess adominant stretch axis that axis may be oriented generally orthogonal tothe dominant stretch axis of the base layer 120. As indicated by thedouble arrows in FIG. 1A-FIG. 1D, the first layer possesses a dominantelongation axis; accordingly, the dominant elongation axis is orientedgenerally orthogonal to the dominant stretch direction of the base layer120.

It is further noted that the first layer 110 can also have a stretchproperty in the same (e.g., horizontal or second) direction as thesecond layer 120 (e.g., the first layer can have four way stretchproperties), but the degree of stretch for the first layer 110 will beless than the degree of stretch for the second layer 120 when in thesame (e.g., parallel) direction. The orientation and degree of stretchproperties for the first layer 110 in relation to the second layer 120can also be applicable for further layers (e.g., layers 130, 135 and 140as shown in the composite material embodiments of FIGS. 1B-1D). Thus, inexample embodiments, the layers 110, 120, 130, 135, 140 are secured toeach other in a suitable alignment or orientation such that second layer120 has the greatest degree of elongation/stretch or greatest stretchproperty in a particular dimension (e.g., horizontal or second or widthdirection as shown in FIGS. 1A-1D) in relation to other layers of theformed composite material.

The layers (e.g., layer 110 and layer 120 as shown in FIG. 1A, andfurther layers as shown in FIGS. 1B-1D) of the composite material 100are connected to each other via stitching that is patterned to guide thestretching of the composite material, such as the expansion pattern ofthe material 100 and/or the extent of material expansion. In an exampleembodiment, the stitches are formed via an embroidery process. Inembroidery, strands are attached to the composite material 100 in apredetermined pattern. Referring to FIG. 2, a strand 205 includes afirst thread 215A (also called a top or needle thread) and a secondthread 215B (also called a bottom or bobbin thread). The threads 215A,215B are generally vertically aligned. In addition, the threads 215A,215B are interlocked at spaced locations along the length of the strand.Specifically, the top thread 215A is secured to the bobbin thread 215B(and vice versa) via a stitch 225 (i.e., an interlocking structure thatlocks the strands together). By way of example, a lockstitch (where theone strand wraps the other strand) is utilized. A lockstitch effectivelysecures the strands to each other, preventing unraveling of crossingyarn 205. While a particular lockstitch is illustrated (an over-lockstitch), it should be understood that different means of interlockingmay be utilized to provide desired load extension characteristics to thetextile structure. For example, other stitches such as a tatami stitch,a triaxial fill stitch, satin stitch, running stitch, chain stitch, etc.may be utilized.

With this configuration, the top thread 215A is positioned on a firstexposed side of the composite material 100 (the first layer 110), andthe second thread 215B is positioned on a second exposed side of thecomposite material (e.g., the base layer 120 in the package of FIG. 1A)such that the top thread is generally aligned with the bobbin threadalong the length of the strand. Specifically, the top thread 215Atravels along the exposed (outer/upper) surface of the first layer 110(or other topmost layer), while the bobbin thread 215B travels along theexposed (inner/lower) surface of the second layer 120 (or otherbottommost layer, such as a lining layer 140 as described herein anddepicted in FIGS. 1B-1D). At predetermined intervals, the strands 215A,215B pass through the layers of the composite material 100, interlock toform the stitch 225, and then travel back to their respective sides ofthe composite material. The process is then repeated, with a resultingstrand 205 that includes thread segments 215A, 215B generally aligned onopposite sides of the composite material 100 (i.e., the top surfacepattern is in registry with the bottom surface pattern).

The distance between immediately adjacent stitches 225 along the lengthof the strand 205 is referred to as the stitch length SL. The stitchlength SL may be any distance suitable for providing sufficient strengthfor the patterned stitch network as described herein. For example, thestitch length may range from about 1 mm to about 8 mm and is preferablyless than about 5 mm (e.g., about 2 mm to about 2.5 mm). Stitch lengthsgreater than 8 mm are generally insufficient to secure the layerstogether, as well as provide the necessary lockout of the compositematerial 100 under load.

The strand 205 (i.e., the threads 215A, 215B) may be similar to thosedescribed above for the strands forming the base layer 120, and mayinclude single fiber, filament, or monofilament, as well as anassemblage of textile fibers having a high ratio of length to diameterand normally used as a unit (e.g. includes slivers, roving, singleyarns, plies yarns, cords, braids, ropes, etc.).

In an embodiment, the top thread 215A and the bobbin thread 215B can beformed of the materials selected to achieve a desired strength for thepatterned strand network (e.g., each strand may be formed of nylon,polyester, polyacrylic, polypropylene, polyethylene, metal, silk,cellulosic fibers (e.g., cotton), elastomers, etc.). The choice of aparticular type of thread can depend upon a number of factors, includingthread strength. For example, a thread formed of ultra-high molecularweight (UHMW) polyethylene can be stronger than a thread formed ofnylon, which in turn can be stronger than a thread formed of polyester.In an example embodiment, the threads 215A, 215B comprise nylon. Inanother example embodiment, the threads 215A, 215B comprise apolyethylene material, e.g., ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene(UHMWPE). In further embodiments, the strands may be high tenacity nylon(e.g., nylon 6,6) or a polyethylene terephthalate (“PET”). The threadscan have a suitable elongation value ranging, e.g., from about 20% toabout 30%.

The dimensions (size/shape) of the threads 215A, 215B may be anysuitable for its described purpose. For example, the top thread 215A andthe bobbin thread 215B can range from M40 (70 TEX) to M80 (35 TEX). Thetop thread 215A and the bobbin thread 215B can be identical in size andcomposition. Preferably, the top thread 21A and the bobbin thread 215Bdiffer in size and/or composition. For example, the bobbin thread 215Bpossesses a higher TEX value and/or is formed of different material thanthe top thread 215A. In an embodiment, the top thread 215A is a M60 (45TEX), continuous filament nylon 6,6, while the bobbin thread 215B is andM122, continuous filament nylon (NYLBOND and ECOBOBS, respectively, eachavailable from Coats Industrial (Great Britain)).

The embroidery process is utilized to form a patterned stitch or strandnetwork within the composite material 100. The embroidery may beconducted utilizing an embroidery machine available from Shanghai TajimaEmbroidery Machinery Co., Ltd. The stitch network is structural, beingcapable of controlling the expansion pattern of the composite material100. Thus, while it permits expansion, it not only directs the movementof the expansion, as well as can limit the degree of expansion.Referring to FIG. 5 (showing the first layer 110 of composite material100), the stitch network 500 defines a plurality of discrete cells 510,each cell having predetermined dimensions (size and shape) and beingformed by an enclosed area EA, which, in turn, is defined by a stitchperimeter or border of stitching lines/stitching rows (i.e., a patternof straight and/or curved lines or rows formed from a plurality ofstitches) for the cell. In the embodiment of FIG. 5, the stitch network500 includes an array of polygonal (e.g., arrow-shaped) cells 510defined within the perimeter or boundary of stitch lines or stitch rows.The cells 510 have uniform size and shape, with the cells 510 furtherbeing organized in columns 515 and rows 520. As shown, the arrowheadcells of one column are inverted compared to the arrowhead cells of anadjacent column. In further embodiments, the cells can have varyingsizes and/or varying shapes.

In example embodiments, the stitch network 500 is configured to controlthe expansion pattern of the composite material 100. In particular, asdescribed herein (with reference to FIGS. 7A-7C), the size(s) andshape(s) of the cells 510 of the stitch network 500 may have shapes thatexpand and contract in a predetermined pattern, cooperating to allow andguide the expansion or contraction of the composite material 100 (or oneor more layers of the composite material) a suitable dimension duringstretching/tension of the second layer 120 as well as contraction of thesecond layer when the tension on the second layer is released. In anembodiment, the shapes and/or configuration of the cells (as defined bythe stitching pattern/stitch network applied to the composite material)may be selected to create a pattern effective to lower the Poisson'sratio of the composite material (compared to the ratio the compositematerial would have without the array of cells).

In a further embodiment, the stitch network 500 that forms the cells 510may be selected to provide the composite material with a negativePoisson's ratio. In other words, when stretched, the composite materialand/or cells of the composite material will move or expand in adirection generally orthogonal or perpendicular to the applied tensionor stretching force. This will also cause a change in the shapes of thecells, where the cells collapse along the z-axis in response to suchtension or stretching force as described herein (in relation to FIGS.4B-4D).

Lowering or imparting a negative Poisson's ratio to the compositematerial 100 can be achieved by providing a stitch network that formscells having one or more auxetic shapes (e.g., the auxetic arrowheadshapes of cells 510 for stitch network 500). Further still, the auxeticshapes can be formed as reentrant polygonal shapes. A reentrantpolygonal shape has one or more reentrant angles, where a reentrantangle is an internal angle of the polygon that is greater than 180°.Reentrant auxetic shapes can have hinge-like features (e.g., at thereentrant angle locations of the auxetic shapes) that can cause anexpansion or compression of the composite material or layer upon whichthe auxetic shape is formed in a direction orthogonal or perpendicularto a direction of corresponding expansion or compression of thecomposite material. In the embodiments described herein, hinge-likefeatures are formed by the stitch network defining the cells 510,including the strands 215A, 215B and the stitches 225.

Any suitable type or types of auxetic patterns can be formed by thepatterned strand network along the exposed sides of the compositematerial 100. Some non-limiting examples of cell arrays formed asauxetic patterns which can be used to form cells of a composite materialare depicted in FIGS. 6A-6D. Referring to FIGS. 6A and 6B, stitchnetworks 605, 610 are shown along a composite material forming cellshaving an arrowhead auxetic shape that is similar in shape and patternconfiguration as the stich network 500 of cells 510 depicted in FIG. 5.Other examples of auxetic cell shapes that can be provided for acomposite material are shown by the stitch patterns 615, 620, 625 inFIGS. 6C, 6D and 6E (e.g., hour glass shaped auxetic cells for stitchpatterns 615, 620, and wavy shaped auxetic cells for stitch pattern625).

It should be understood, however, that other enclosed cell shapes may beutilized in forming the stitch network. For example, non-auxeticpolygonal cells may be utilized.

An example method of forming the composite material 100 is now describedwith reference to the flow diagram of FIG. 3 and the schematiccross-sectional views of FIGS. 4A, 4B and 4C. In operation, first layer110 and second layer 120 are obtained. At Step 310, the resilient secondlayer 120 (also called the base layer) is placed under tension andstretched to a suitable elongation value (e.g., stretched along at leastone axis to an elongation value of at least 150%). At step 320, thefirst layer 110, which is not tensioned, is then positioned over thetensioned second layer 120, as depicted in FIG. 4A. At step 330, thelayers 110, 120 are then connected, e.g., via embroidery as describedherein, with stitch sites 425 (i.e., locations at where stitches 225 areto be formed) being defined along the surface areas of layers 110, 120.See FIG. 4B. As noted above, embroidery of the stitches 225 creates thestitch network 500 along the composite material 100 so as to define apattern of stitched cells 510 along the composite material. Afterformation of the stitch network 500, at step 340, the tension on thesecond layer 120 is released, allowing the resilient layer to recover,returning to its normal, unstretched state. See FIG. 4C. Once thecomposite material is in its normal, unstretched state, it may beincorporated into an article of apparel (step 350) in a manner similarto other textile structures.

As depicted in FIG. 4C, release of the tension allows the second layer120 to recover substantially or entirely, contracting along the x and/ory axes to an original, normal or unstretched position. The first layer110, being non-stretch or a lower stretch (i.e., having a lowerelongation value) along the axis on which tension to the second layerwas applied, causes one or more of the cells 510 of the stitch network500 to buckle or pucker, moving away (along a Z dimension or axis fromthe surface area (which defines a generally two dimensional surface areain X and Y dimensions or axes) of the second layer 120 as the secondlayer contracts to its relaxed/original state. In particular, in therelaxed state of the second layer 120, the first layer 110 forms abuckled or undulating surface pattern in the Z dimension way from theunderlying second layer 120, where the pattern of stitches 225 formed inthe composite material 100 secure the first layer 110 to the secondlayer along the stitch network 500. Thus, the cells 510 formed by theprocess of steps 310-350 protrude from the surface of the underlyingsecond layer 120 when the second layer is in a relaxed (unstretched)state. Accordingly, voids 470 (e.g., air spaces) are defined withinpockets of the buckled cells 510 (i.e., the spacing or volume betweenthe buckling first layer 110 and the relatively flat or unbuckled secondlayer 120 within each cell 510).

Thus, the composite material includes a series of protruding pocketsformed by the first layer 110 being separated from the second layer 120within each cell 510. The overall pattern of the pockets, moreover, isdefined by the stitch pattern or network 500. Referring again to FIG. 5,the resulting composite fabric material 100 (in its unstretched state)includes an uneven surface, where layer 110 forming each cell 510 isbuckled or puckered, extending away from the second layer 120 along thez axis or direction orthogonal to the surface of the second layer (seeFIG. 4B). Each cell 510 is defined and bordered by stitching (shown viatop thread 215A). The area within the border protrudes outward, therebyseparating the first layer 110 from the second layer 120 within theborder. With this configuration, a composite material 100 including anarray of cells 510 is formed. The shape of the protruding cells orpockets, moreover, matches the shape of the original stitch networkcells.

With this configuration, a composite material 100 provides a dynamictextile that that repeatedly stretches under load and recovers uponremoval of the load. In particular, the stretch properties of the secondlayer 120 allow for a certain amount of overall stretch for thecomposite material under load and, upon removal of the load, furtherdrives the entire composite back to its normal, unstretched state. Asdepicted in FIGS. 7A, 7B and 7C, the composite material 100 begins inits normal, unstretched configuration. FIG. 7A. Here, the distance(d_(max)) between the base layer and the highest point of the protrudingcell is at its maximum value. Similarly, the void volume of the void 470is at its maximum.

Applying a tension or load (e.g., along the dominant stretch directionof the base layer 120 (the x-axis)) to the composite material 100 causesstretching of the second layer 120 in the directions indicated by thearrows. FIG. 7B. This results in a corresponding splaying or collapse ofthe first layer cells 110 in the Z direction (indicated by arrow z)toward the second layer 120. As the cells 510 collapse or flatten thedistance d_(int) between the highest point of the cell 510 (as definedby outer layer) decreases, as does the void volume of the cell voids470. Continued application of tension or load stretches of the compositematerial results in further until full or complete collapse andflattening of the cells 510 results, as seen in FIG. 7C. At this degreeof tension, the distance d_(min) is at a minimum, with the outer layer110 generally contacting (e.g., nearly contacting or continuouslycontacting) the base layer 120; accordingly, the void volume of eachcell void 470 at its minimal level and the composite materialsignificantly flattens.

This collapse or flattening of the cells 510 during stretching of thesecond layer 120 enhances stretching of the composite material duringcell collapse until the cells lock down or lock out (e.g., completelyflatten) so as to prevent further expansion of the composite material inthe area of the flattened cells. This becomes a lock down or a lock outposition or static state at which the composite fabric is prevented fromfurther movement.

As shown, at an original or initial relaxed condition of the compositematerial (FIG. 7A), the cells 510 are buckled to their full extent inthe “Z” direction (i.e., greatest separation between first layer 110 andsecond layer 120 for each cell 510) and are in a dynamic state. As thecomposite material 100 is stretched at any location in the indicateddirection, the elongation of the base layer 120 causes the cells 510 toflatten by collapsing driving the pliable layer 110 toward the baselayer, thereby reducing the volume of the voids 470 within the cells 510(as shown, e.g., in FIGS. 7B and 7C). Similarly, any layers 140positioned on the opposite side of the base layer similarly beginbuckled and then flatten as load is applied on the composite fabric(e.g., in the direction of the dominant stretch axis of the base layer120) as seen best in FIG. 13.

Upon release of the tension on the composite material 100, the compositematerial contracts back to its relaxed (e.g., original) dimension andthe cells 510 buckle outward and away from the second layer 120 to theiroriginal positions as depicted in FIG. 7A. The cells 510 thereforeexhibit a dynamic or loaded state in which the cells are capable ofmovement along the z-axis (e.g., as shown in FIGS. 7A and 7B) and adegree of stretching movement of the composite material, and the cells510 further exhibit a static state (FIG. 7C) when the cells are fullyflattened or collapsed toward the second layer 120 so as to lock theportion of the composite material 100 including the fully flattenedcells in place and prevent further stretching movement of this portionof the composite material.

Due to the stitching process (e.g., embroidery), the patterned strandnetwork is identical and precisely aligned on each of the exposed sidesof the composite material 100. Due to its formation, each cell 510 isfurther capable of flattening or splaying when subjected to a loadforce, where each cell can completely flatten independent of other cellsdue to each cell being independently locked in position in relation tothe second layer 120 due to the stitching that surrounds the cell. Thus,depending upon a localized tension applied to a first portion of thecomposite material 100, an area defined by the first portion can exhibitvarying degrees of movement and stretch, with corresponding flattening(e.g., to lockdown) of cells when the tension is applied to the firstportion while a second portion of the composite material that is notsubjected to the localized tension does not exhibit stretching orcollapsing action of the cells within the area defined by the secondportion.

The collapse of cells 510 and stretching of the composite material tolock out can be further enhanced by orienting the auxetic shapes ofcells in relation to a dimension of stretch of the second layer 120during formation of the composite material. In an example embodiment, astitched network 500 of cells 510 having auxetic polygonal shapes withreentrant angles (e.g., arrowhead auxetic shapes, hourglass auxeticshapes, etc.) is formed (step 330) along the layers 110, 120 such thatat least one reentrant angle of the auxetic shapes is oriented in adirection that is transverse (e.g., orthogonal) in relation to thedimension of dominant stretch of the tensioned second layer. Such anorientation of auxetic shapes for the cells in relation to the greatestelongation potential for the second layer in the composite material canfacilitate a suitable degree of stretch of at least a portion of thecomposite material and sufficient cell movement until cell lockout isachieved (i.e., full flattening or full collapse of the cells).

An example embodiment for implementing the composite material 100 withinan upper of an article of footwear (i.e., a shoe) is now described withreference to FIGS. 8 and 9. Referring to FIG. 8, an upper for a shoe canbe formed with a upper material 700 that includes at least layers 110and 120, where layer 110 forms an outer surface of the upper. Theprocess flow chart described herein and depicted in FIG. 3 can be usedto form the upper material 700, where first (outer) layer 110 is firstcut as a blank to form the shape of the upper when secured with thesecond layer 120. In particular, the first layer 110 includes a first(e.g., lateral) side 705 that will form the lateral side of the shoeupper and a second (e.g., medial) side 710 that will form the medialside of the upper, a front or toe end 715 and a rear or heel end 720that will respectively form the toe and heel ends of the upper whencombined with a sole structure to form a shoe (e.g., as depicted inFIGS. 8A, 8B and 8C). A cut-out portion of the heel end 720 will definethe neck opening for the upper when the composite material 700 iscombined with a sole structure. After completing process steps 310-350,the composite material 700 can be cut out along the perimeter/edges offirst layer 110 (thus removing excess portions of layer 120) to form theupper material that will combine with a sole structure to form a shoe.

In certain embodiments (e.g., depending upon the material cost of thefirst layer), it may be desirable to obtain precise dimensions for thefirst layer 110 prior to securing to the second layer so as to ensurethe first layer is sufficiently sized to fit the final dimensions of theupper. In this case, a material that forms the first layer can be pulledover a shoe last or other structural form to expand slightly undertension and simulate the final dimensions required for the upper, wherethe first layer 110 is then cut to the precise dimensions while thematerial remains pulled over the shoe last (thus defining the shape offirst layer 110 in FIG. 8).

When the composite material 100, 700 is utilized in forming the upper ofa shoe (FIG. 9A), the composite material adapts to the dimensions (shapeand/or size) of the user's foot. This adaption occurs not only while theuser dons or doffs the shoe, but also during active use of the shoe(e.g., during sports or other physical activities), permitting selectiveexpansion of the upper (the composite material 100, 700) based on loadconditions. Under load, the cells 510 splay out or expand until theyflatten, at which point the cell locks out, preventing further expansionof the fabric in that area.

Further, when the shapes of the cells 510 are aligned in a particulardirection of the upper/shoe in relation to the dominant stretchdirection of the second layer 120 (i.e., direction or dimension of thesecond layer having the greatest or maximum elongation value), furtherenhancement can be achieved with regard to the expansion and lockoutfeatures of the upper imparted by the dynamic movement(flattening/collapsing) of the cells during use of the shoe. Forexample, the composite material 100, 700 can be integrated as part ofthe upper so as to align or orient the second layer 120 such that thedominant stretch dimension for the second layer is aligned in adirection transverse the length or toe-to-heel dimension of the upperand shoe (i.e., in a direction extending the width or medial-to-lateralside dimension of the upper and shoe). In such embodiments, thecomposite material 100, 700 can also be integrated as part of the uppersuch that one or more reentrant angles for auxetic shapes of the cells510 of the composite material are aligned in the length (toe-to-heel)dimension of the upper and shoe.

In further embodiments, the composite material 100, 700 for the uppermay include additional layers depending on the desired end use. Exampleembodiments of further composite materials are depicted in FIGS. 1B, 1Cand 1D. As shown, the composite materials 100A, 100B, 100C, 100D aresimilar to composite material 100 of FIG. 1A in that each comprises thepliable, first or outer layer 110 and the second or resilient, stretchlayer 120. As noted above, the first or outer layer 110 may be formed ofany material suitable for its described purpose. For example, the firstlayer may be knit fabric, a woven fabric, a film or a nonwoven web. Thefirst layer 110 also has a suitable thickness to facilitate bending orbuckling as well as stretch/lockout features for the cells 510 in themanner described herein. By way of example, the first layer 110 can havea thickness no greater than about 2 mm (e.g., a thickness of no greaterthan 1 mm, or less than 1 mm). In an example embodiment, the pliablefirst layer 110 can comprise a synthetic leather material having athickness of about 0.5 mm to about 1.5 mm, such as 0.8 mm. The otherlayers described herein for the different embodiments of the compositematerials (layers 120, 130, 135, 140) can have thickness in a similarrange (about 0.5 mm to about 2.0 mm). Each layer can further have asuitable basis weight that renders the layer, when combined with one ormore other layers to form the composite material, suitable for achievingthe features of the stitched network of cells for the compositematerial. For example, the basis weight for one or more layers can be inthe range from about 80 g/m² to about 150 g/m² or greater.

As previously noted, the resilient second layer 120 may be a four waystretch fabric. A dominant degree of stretch or elongation (elongationvalue) of the second layer 120 in one dimension is at least about 50%,and the second layer 120 can be oriented within the composite material100 such that its dominant degree of elongation is in the second (width)direction of the composite material 100. The resilient second layer 120can be a fabric formed from at least about 50% elastic strands. In anembodiment, the second layer 120 is a knit layer that includes at leastabout 50% elastane strands, e.g., at least about 60% elastane strands(e.g., about 68% elastane strands). A fabric with 60+% elastane strandspossesses high stretch or elongation properties, such as a maximumelongation of at least 50%. This fabric also exhibits high recoveryproperties (i.e., ability to recover or contract a length that is somepercentage of original length/width after stretch or tension is removedfrom the fabric), e.g., recovery in both the first and second directionsof greater than about 50%, or even about 90% or greater. Thus, thesecond layer 120 has a greater degree of elongation in at least thewidth direction (and, e.g., in the width and length directions) inrelation to the first layer 110.

In addition, the composite material can include one or more furtherlayers, including one or more intermediate layers that are between thefirst layer 110 and the second layer 120 and/or one or more inner orouter layers that are not between but instead located to one side of thefirst layer 110 or the second layer 120. In the example embodiment ofFIGS. 1B and 1C, the composite material 100B, 100C includes anintermediate reinforcement layer 130 disposed between the first layer110 and the second layer 120 (e.g., along an outer facing side of thesecond layer 120). In addition, an inner or lining layer 140 may bedisposed adjacent the second layer 120 (on an opposing side of thesecond layer). The composite material 100C may further include a secondreinforcement layer 130 oriented between the second layer 120 and thefirst layer 110. Alternatively, the composite material 100D may includea spacer reinforcement layer 135 oriented between the second layer 120and the reinforcement layer 130 as shown in FIG. 1D.

In general, the layers (other than the first layer 110 and the secondlayer 120) can be selected so that, while flexible, they are generallynon-stretch and/or non-recovery textiles. By way of example, the layersmay be fabrics having a maximum elongation or stretch of less than 30%and preferably less than 10%. Stated another way, while the textile mayinclude small amounts of mechanical stretch, the textile includes noelastic stretch. By way of specific example, the reinforcement layer 130may be a rigid tricot knit fabric formed of 100% hard/inelastic yarnsuch as nylon. The spacer fabric 135 (which can provide airflow and/orcushioning to the structure) is similarly a low or no stretch materialformed completely of a hard yarn such as polyester. Finally, the lininglayer 140 is a knit layer formed entirely of hard yarns such aspolyester.

In each composite material package illustrated in FIGS. 1B-1D, thesecond layer 120 possesses a dominant stretch or elongation value thatis oriented orthogonal to the dominant stretch dimension of thereinforcement layer 130, the spacer layer 135, the lining layer 140, andthe first layer 110, as indicated by the arrows (i.e., the arrow isaligned in a horizontal or second direction for layer 120, and thearrows are aligned in a vertical or first direction for layers 110, 130,135, 140). In addition, to the extent any of layers 110, 130, 135, 140has some degree of elongation in the horizontal (second) direction(i.e., the same direction as the dominant stretch direction for thesecond layer 120), the elongation values for these layers in thehorizontal direction is significantly less than the elongation value forthe second layer 120 in its dominant stretch dimension.

In still further embodiments, the various layers as depicted in theembodiments of FIGS. 1A-1D can be oriented in relation to each otherbased upon the warp or weft direction of each textile layer. A warpdirection for a textile refers to the orientation of threads or yarnsthat run the length of a continuous roll of fabric, where the warpdirection also refers to the machine direction of the formed textile.The weft direction of the textile is transverse to the warp or machinedirection (i.e., the cross direction of the textile). When the compositematerials 100, 100B, 100C, 100D depicted in FIGS. 1A-1D are used to forman upper for a shoe using the methods as described herein, the machinedirection corresponds with the length (toe-to-heel) dimension of theshoe. The first layer 110 and the second layer 120 can each be orientedin the warp (toe-to-heel) direction, the reinforcement layer 130 and thespacer layer 135 can be oriented in the weft (lateral to medial side)direction, and the lining layer 140 can be oriented in the warp(toe-to-heel) direction. In such embodiments, the second layer 120preferably has a dominant stretch or elongation value (e.g., anelongation value of greater than 50%, or even greater than 100%, and asgreat as 160%) that is in the weft direction of the second layer.

As with the composite material 100 described for FIG. 1A, an embroideryprocess can be used to connect some or all of the layers together asdepicted in FIGS. 1B-1D, as well as form the patterned stitch network.In other words, when forming the composite materials 100A, 100B, 100C,the second or stretch layer 120 is placed under tension while theremaining layers 110, 130, 135, 140 are not. The layers can be stitchedtogether via stitches 225 (e.g., via embroidery) and, after formation ofthe patterned strand network, the tension on the second layer 120 can bereleased according to the process steps as described herein withreference to the flowchart of FIG. 3. This release in tension on thesecond layer 120 allows the second layer 120 to relax andrecover/contract back to (or close to) its original dimension along thefirst direction of the composite material 100A, 100B, 100C. Since thefirst layer 110 and any other further layers have been secured (viastitches 225) to the second layer 120 while the second layer 120 wasstretched, the contraction of the second layer 120 results in a bending,bowing or buckling outward (i.e., in a “Z” dimension of the compositematerial) of these layer(s) in relation to the second layer 120 andfurther at the areas between enclosed shapes defined by the stitchingpatterns.

Similar to the cells 510 of the composite material 100, the bucklingforms pockets or cells along the exposed sides of the compositematerials 100A, 100B, 100C where the cells are defined by at least thefirst layer 110 and/or any other layers 130, 135, 140 bowing outward orbuckling on either side of the second layer 120 within the areas definedbetween the stitched shapes. The second layer 120 remains relativelyflat or unbuckled. Voids (e.g., air spaces) 470 are also defined withinthe pockets of the buckled cells (i.e., the spacing or volume betweenthe buckling layers and the relatively flat or unbuckled second layer120). Furthermore, each cell is capable of flattening or splaying whensubjected to a load force, where each cell can completely flattenindependent of other cells due to each cell being independently lockedin position in relation to the second layer 120 due to the stitchingthat surrounds the cell.

In some embodiments, it may be desirable to add a further layer to thecomposite material after performing the process steps of FIG. 3. Forexample, in an embodiment in which it is desirable to add a lining layer140 to an underside of the second layer 120, where the lining layerforms an interior surface of the composite material (e.g., for a shoeupper) and may be in contact with the wearer. As seen best in FIG. 13,when the composite material 100B is in its normal, unloaded state, thecells 510 of the lining layer 140 protrude from the surface of the baselayer 120, creating a void or pocket 470. Under load, moreover, thecells 510 of the lining layer collapse until lockout (e.g., full,continuous contact with the base layer 120).

The different embodiments of component materials 100, 100B, 100C, 100Ddepicted in FIGS. 1A-1D can be utilized to obtain different performancecharacteristics for an intended purpose or specific application (e.g.,based upon a particular sport, such as football, soccer, baseball,etc.). For example, providing one or more reinforcement layers 130and/or a reinforcement layer 130 and a spacer layer 135 to the componentmaterial including the first and second layers 110, 120 can enhance thepuncture resistance of the component material (e.g., when integratedwithin a shoe upper) and/or increase the tear strength or otherproperties of the material.

In a further embodiment, a laminate film can be adhered (e.g., via aheat press method) to the outer surface of layer 110 so as to provide athin synthetic “skin” film over the upper outer surface. The laminatefilm is very thin and can have a thickness that is less than thethickness of layer 110 (e.g., about 0.2 mm to about 0.3 mm) so as tostill permit dynamic movement of the cells 510 during physicalactivities when the shoe is worn. The synthetic “skin” film can providea protection layer over the upper (e.g., to provide moisture barrier orresistance properties, enhanced puncture resistance, etc. for theupper).

Referring to FIG. 9A, 9B and 9C, an article of footwear or shoe 800 isdepicted including an upper with the composite material 700 integratedas some or all of the upper (where material can comprise compositematerial 100 or any of the other composite materials 100B, 100C, 100D asdescribed herein). The shoe 800 defines a longitudinal shoe axis LAdividing the shoe into lateral L and medial M sides. The shoe 800includes an upper 805 and a sole structure 810 spanning heel 815A,midfoot 815B, and forefoot 815C sections of the shoe. The shoe 800 canbe in the form of a running shoe or other type of athletic shoe. Thesole structure 810 of the shoe 800 can include a midsole and an outsolethat are separately formed of any one or more suitable materials and caninclude any suitable number (one or more) of layers for a particularapplication of use for the shoe. The medial side M is oriented along themedial or big toe side of the user's foot and the lateral side L isoriented along the lateral or little toe side of the user's foot (themedial and lateral sides being distinguished by a central, longitudinalaxis LA). The forefoot section 815C includes the toe (i.e., front) end(also referred to as a toe cage or toe box) that corresponds with thetoe end of the user's foot, and a heel (i.e., rear) end that correspondswith the heel of the foot. The upper 805 defines a cavity between themedial and lateral sides and the toe and heel ends such that, whensecured to a portion of the sole structure 810, the upper receives,covers and protects the foot within the cavity. The upper 805 furtherincludes an instep positioned between the lateral side and the medialside, where the instep extends over the instep of the foot and can atongue (where a fastener, such as a shoe lace, can be disposed at theinstep to cinch or secure the lateral and medial sides as well as otherportions of the upper together to tighten around a user's foot whenplaced within the cavity of the upper).

The composite material 100 (which includes a plurality of materiallayers and is formed in a manner as described herein) can be integratedat any one or more locations along the upper at the lateral and/ormedial side, at the instep, at the toe end and/or at the heel end. Thecomposite material 100 can be integrated into the upper 805 at any oneor more suitable locations. In example embodiments, the compositematerial 100, 700 can be used to form a substantial portion of theupper, with cells 510 that cover a substantial portion (e.g., some orall) of the lateral, medial, front and heel sides as well as the instepportion of the upper. It is understood that the lateral side 705, medialside 710, toe end 715 and heel end 720 of the composite material 700,when used to form the upper 805, respectively correspond with thelateral side L, medial side M, toe end at the forefoot section 815C, andheel end at the 815A of the upper and shoe.

In the example embodiment depicted in FIGS. 9A-9C, a shoe with an upperis depicted in which a significant portion of the upper is formed with acomposite material 100 that provides cells 510 having auxetic shapesalong the upper. Any suitable laminate film and/or printed material(e.g., printed design patterns) can also be provided along selectedportions of the exterior surface of the composite material. For example,printed design patterns (or laminate film portions) can be provided atlocations within cells 510 along the upper. The additional materialprovided along the exterior surface of the upper and within the cellscan provide a pleasing aesthetic effect for the upper (e.g., byproviding elaborate or other designs within cell locations). Theadditional material can provide a further functional effect for theupper for a particular application (e.g., to provide waterproofing,shielding protection for the foot of the wearer, abrasion resistanceand/or further strengthening to portions of the upper at certain celllocations). As previously noted herein, a very thin laminate film can beprovided to form a synthetic “skin” layer over the outer surface of theupper (e.g., to provide a protective outer layer or covering for theupper).

The composite material 100 can be implemented/integrated with the uppersuch that the expansion or stretch axis SA or direction of the compositematerial (i.e., the dimension of dominant stretch for the second layer120) is oriented transversely across the upper (transverse to thelongitudinal axis LA, or from the lateral side L to the medial side M ofthe shoe). Accordingly, tension applied along the cell array in thetransverse direction (along stretch axis SA) will cause the cells tosplay/flatten as conditions warrant. Tension or load applied along thelongitudinal axis LA, however, will have little to no effect on theexpansion of the composite material. Further, the shapes of the cells510 can be oriented such that at least some (e.g., most) of the stitchlines of the stitch network 500 are oriented in the direction of thelongitudinal axis LA (i.e., in the toe-to-heel direction) of the upper.Further, cells 510 having auxetic shapes can be oriented such thatreentrant angles of the auxetic shapes are aligned in the same directionas the longitudinal axis LA (i.e., a toe-to-heel dimension of the shoe)and thus transverse the stretch axis SA of the composite material.

Utilizing the composite material 100 to form some portion of the upperprovides features to the upper including durability and an improved fitover the user's foot, because the stretch of the upper can be adapted tothe individual user's foot. In particular, each cell 510 of thecomposite material 100 stretches and/or collapses only as far as isneeded for the given area of the foot. This expansion characteristicimparted to the upper by the composite material applies not only whenthe user puts on the shoe, but also as he or she moves along a surface.The composite material 100 is further dynamic, adjusting to loadconditions as the user moves, but where the cells 510 never collapsebeyond their lockout dimensions (i.e., the dimensions of the patternedstitching surrounding each cell). In particular, when the cells 510 arein a dynamic state, the cells are capable of collapsing when thecomposite material is stretched and the cells are further capable ofbuckling or expanding in the “Z” direction from the second layer 120when the stretch or tension on the composite material 100 is released.The cells are further in a static state when the cells collapse to alockout position (e.g., as depicted in FIG. 7C) in which furtherexpansion of the composite material is limited.

The above described embodiments of the composite material can also beused with or implemented in other types of articles of apparel. Forexample, the composite material 100 can be implemented for use in abrassiere, a shirt, pants, or other types of clothing.

Referring to FIGS. 10A and 10B, a brassiere, also referred to as asports bra 900, is depicted that includes a composite material 905integrated within the textile material of the bra. The compositematerial 905 is similar to the composite material 100 as describedherein and includes a first layer 110 and a second layer 120. The stitchnetwork used to form cells in the composite material 905 of the bra 900defines cells having auxetic shapes similar to those depicted in FIG. 6C(hour glass auxetic shapes).

The bra 900 includes a body and a pair of shoulder straps 915 extendingfrom a front portion 910 to a rear portion 920. The front portion 910 isconfigured to generally span the front of the wearer's torso, while therear portion 920 is configured to generally span the rear of thewearer's torso. The front and rear portions connect with each other viawing portions 922 that span either side of the wearer (under the arm). Aneckline 930 extends along the front portion 910 between the shoulderstraps 915. A bottom or under band 940 extends along the bottom edge ofthe body between the front and rear portions and is configured toencircle the torso of the wearer. A cup area 950 continuously spans thefront portion 110 and is aligned and configured to span the breasts ofthe wearer. The cup area 950 can further include one or more pockets inwhich pads may be fitted to align with the breasts of the wearer (inorder to provide comfort to the wearer when the bra is worn).

The composite material 905 can be integrated in the bra at any one ormore suitable locations. Other portions of the bra that may not includethe composite material can be formed of any textile materials suitablefor a bra and formed via any suitable method and including any suitableone or more types of fibers or strands (e.g., elastic strands,non-elastic strands, polyester strands, nylon strands, etc.) such as thetypes described herein for forming the different layers of the compositematerial. In an example embodiment (as depicted in FIGS. 9A and 9B), thecomposite material 905 is integrated at the cup area 950 to enhancestretching, fit and comfort of the bra for the wearer. The dynamicaction and static lockout action of the cells formed in the compositematerial 905 at a location where the composite material is stretched issimilar to that described for the composite material 500 and depicted inFIGS. 7A-7C.

In another embodiment depicted in FIG. 11, an article of apparel thatimplements the composite material 905 is in the form of an upper bodygarment or shirt 1000 (e.g., an athletic shirt). The shirt 1000 includesa torso section 1010 (to fit around the torso of the wearer) and two armsleeve sections 1020 (to fit around the arms of the wearer). Thecomposite material 905 can be implemented at any portion of the shirt.For example, the composite material 905 can be used to form one or moreportions of either arm sleeve section 1020 and/or the torso section1010. The composite material 905 can further form a substantial portionof the shirt. Other portions of the shirt that may not include thecomposite material can be formed of any textile materials suitable for ashirt and formed via any suitable method and including any suitable oneor more types of fibers or strands (e.g., elastic strands, non-elasticstrands, polyester strands, nylon strands, etc.) such as the typesdescribed herein for forming the different layers of the compositematerial. The composite material 905 integrated in the shirt 1000 canprovide enhanced stretching, fit and comfort for the wearer, wheredynamic action and static lockout action of the cells formed in thecomposite material 905 at a location where the composite material isstretched is similar to that described for the composite material 500and depicted in FIGS. 7A-7C.

In a further embodiment depicted in FIG. 12, an article of apparel thatimplements the composite material 905 is in the form of lower bodygarment 1100 (e.g., leggings, pants or shorts). The lower body garment1100 includes a main torso section 1110 that is configured to extendaround the waist, hip and/or upper thigh regions of the wearer, andfurther two leg sleeve sections 1120 that extend from the main torsosection 1110 and are configured to extend around some portion of thelegs of the wearer. An elastic band 1130 can further be provided at anupper edge of the garment 1100 around the main torso section 1110. Thecomposite material 905 can be implemented at any portion of the lowerbody garment. For example, the composite material 905 can be used toform one or more portions of either leg sleeve section 1120 and/or themain torso section 1110. The composite material 905 can further form asubstantial portion of the lower body garment. Other portions of thelower body garment that may not include the composite material can beformed of any textile materials suitable for a lower body garment andformed via any suitable method and including any suitable one or moretypes of fibers or strands (e.g., elastic strands, non-elastic strands,polyester strands, nylon strands, etc.) such as the types describedherein for forming the different layers of the composite material. Thecomposite material 905 integrated in the lower body garment 1100 canprovide enhanced stretching, fit and comfort for the wearer, wheredynamic action and static lockout action of the cells formed in thecomposite material 905 at a location where the composite material isstretched is similar to that described for the composite material 500and depicted in FIGS. 7A-7C.

Other embodiments incorporating a composite material as described hereinare also possible. For example, any textile material product canincorporate the composite material as described herein to enhance thestretchable properties of the product.

While the invention has been described in detail and with reference tospecific embodiments thereof, it will be apparent to one skilled in theart that various changes and modifications can be made therein withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope thereof.

For example, while the example embodiments depicted in the figures showan article of footwear (shoe) configured for a right foot, it is notedthat the same or similar features can also be provided for an article offootwear (shoe) configured for a left foot (where such features of theleft footed shoe are reflection or “mirror image” symmetrical inrelation to the right footed shoe).

The composite material can be implemented in any textile article toenhance stretchability of the composite material at one or morelocations independent of other locations of the material. The compositematerial includes at least one resilient layer capable having anelongation value in a dominant stretch dimension of the resilient layerthat is at least 50%, preferably at least 100% or greater. One or morelayers are secured to the resilient layer such that any degree ofstretch associated with such layer(s) along the same dimension of thecomposite material that corresponds or is parallel with the dominantstretch dimension of the resilient layer will have an elongation valuethat is less than the elongation value of the resilient layer in itsdominant stretch dimension.

The stitch network used to form cells can be formed via embroidery orany other suitable stitching process. The cells forming by the stitchnetwork along layers of the composite material can have any suitableshapes depending upon a particular application for the compositematerial. In particular, while auxetic shapes can be useful for certainapplications, other enclosed shapes for the cells formed by the stitchnetwork are also possible (e.g., enclosed circles or enclosed ovalpatterns, intersecting wavy line patterns, etc.).

The stitch network along a composite material can also include cellshaving different shapes and/or different sizes at different areas of thecomposite material. For example, a stitch network can be provided alonga composite material used to form an article of apparel (e.g., an upperof a shoe) that includes a first pattern of cells having a first shape(e.g., arrowhead auxetic shapes) at a first area of the compositematerial and a second pattern of cells have a second shape (e.g.,hourglass auxetic shapes) at a second area of the composite material.

It is intended that the present invention covers the modifications andvariations of this invention provided they come within the scope of theappended claims and their equivalents. It is to be understood that termssuch as “top”, “bottom”, “front”, “rear”, “side”, “height”, “length”,“width”, “upper”, “lower”, “interior”, “exterior”, and the like as maybe used herein, merely describe points of reference and do not limit thepresent invention to any particular orientation or configuration.

1. A method of forming an article of apparel, the method comprising:applying tension to a resilient textile layer, the resilient textilelayer possessing a stretch value of at least 100% and a recovery valueof at least 50%, wherein the tension is sufficient to stretch theresilient textile; positioning a pliable textile layer on the resilienttextile layer, the pliable textile layer possessing a stretch value ofless than 100% and a recovery value of less than 50%, wherein thepliable textile layer is positioned on the resilient textile layer in anunstretched configuration; securing the unstretched, pliable textilelayer to the stretched, resilient textile layer via stitching; releasingthe tension from the resilient textile layer to permit recovery of thetextile toward an unstretched configuration, thereby forming amultilayered textile; and incorporating the multilayered textile into anarticle of apparel.
 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein: theresilient textile layer defines a top surface and a bottom surface; thepliable textile layer defines a top surface and a bottom surface; andstitching includes positioning a top thread along the top surface of thepliable textile layer and a bobbin thread along a bottom surface of theresilient textile layer.
 3. The method according to claim 2, wherein:stitching comprises forming an enclosed cell by stitching a cellperimeter to form an enclosed cell; and the pliable textile layer ismovable relative to the pliable textile layer within the enclosed cell.4. The method according to claim 3, wherein stitching further comprisesstitching a plurality of interconnected, enclosed cells to form a cellnetwork effective to secure the pliable textile layer to the resilienttextile layer.
 5. The method according to claim 4, wherein the cellnetwork comprises an array of polygonal shapes, each shape defined bythe stitching.
 6. The method according to claim 5, wherein the cellnetwork comprises an array of auxetic shapes, each shape defined by thestitching.
 7. The method according to claim 4, wherein the pliabletextile layer is shaped into an apparel component prior to beingpositioned on the resilient textile layer.
 8. The method according toclaim 1, wherein, in response to the releasing the tension, portions ofthe pliable textile layer buckle, extending outward and away from theresilient textile layer at the locations of the enclosed cells.
 9. Themethod according to claim 1 further comprising securing a reinforcingtextile layer to the pliable textile layer to form a reinforcedcomposite textile.
 10. The method according to claim 9, wherein: thereinforcing textile layer is a knit textile; and the reinforcing textilelayer is positioned between the pliable textile layer and the resilienttextile layer.
 11. The method according to claim 1, wherein: theresilient textile layer defines a top surface and a bottom surface; thepliable textile layer defines a top surface and a bottom surface; andthe pliable textile layer is positioned on the top surface of theresilient layer; and the method further comprises: positioning anunstretched, lining textile layer on the bottom surface of the resilientlayer, and securing the unstretched, pliable textile layer and theunstretched, lining textile layer to the stretched, resilient textilelayer via embroidery stitching.
 12. The method according to claim 11,wherein: the lining textile layer defines a top surface and a bottomsurface; and embroidery stitching includes positioning a top threadalong the top surface of the pliable textile layer and a bobbin threadalong a bottom surface of the lining textile layer.
 13. The methodaccording to claim 12, wherein embroidery stitching further comprisesstitching a plurality of interconnected, enclosed cells to form a cellnetwork effective to secure the lining textile layer and the pliabletextile layer to the resilient textile layer.
 14. The method accordingto claim 13, further comprising orienting the pliable textile layer withthe resilient textile layer such that a stretch value of the resilienttextile layer is greater than a stretch value of the pliable textilelayer in a stretch direction.
 15. A method of forming an article ofapparel, the method comprising: orienting a first layer with a secondlayer such that a second stretch value of the second layer is greaterthan a first stretch value of the first layer in a stretch direction;applying tension to stretch the second layer in the stretch directionfrom an original dimension to a stretched dimension; securing the firstlayer to the second layer via a stitch network while the tension isapplied to the second layer, wherein the stitch network forms aplurality of enclosed cells located between the first and second layers,each enclosed cell being defined by a perimeter of stitches of thestitch network; releasing the applied tension allowing the second layerto retract from its stretched dimension so as to form a compositematerial; and incorporating the composite material into an article ofapparel.
 16. The method of claim 15, wherein the stitch networkcomprises an embroidered stitch network.
 17. The method of claim 15,wherein, in response to the releasing the applied tension, portions ofthe first layer extend outward and away from the second layer at thelocations of the enclosed cells.
 18. The method of claim 15, wherein theorienting further comprises orienting a third layer between the firstand second layer and securing the first layer and third layer to thesecond layer via the stitch network while the tension is applied to thesecond layer.
 19. The method of claim 15, wherein at least one cell ofthe stitch network has an auxetic shape.
 20. The method of claim 19,wherein the auxetic shape includes a reentrant angle that is aligned ina direction transverse the stretch dimension of the composite material.